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A portrait of Myanmar

Quite often when you travel you have a fair idea what to expect. You've seen the pictures, read the blurb and generally tried to get your head around the place before you go. Sometimes, however, all...

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Bikes & Beauty: Rural Myanmar

I'm writing this post on a scrap of paper from a little restaurant in the Burmese countryside. Every now and then I wiggle my fingers just to make sure I'm still alive. The reason? I've just been on a...

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Circle Again: Riding the Yangon Circle Line

Besides Translink in Northern Ireland who are essentially thieving scum, I like trains. It's the only way I travel in Tokyo, and it's a good chance to get a feel for the layout of any city. I once...

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The Temples of Bagan, Myanmar

“Smiff would absolutely hate this” was all I could think as I boarded my tiny 20-seater propeller plane bound for Bagan in Northern Myanmar. Conor is one of my best friends from back home and hates...

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Good morning. This is your wake-up call.

It's 4am. I'm in bed. It's dark outside. I was asleep. I'm no longer asleep. I look around the room. I think I'm in Tokyo. I'm not in Tokyo. I'm in Bagan in northern Myanmar listening to a Call to...

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Bangkok from the inside

Travelling in a city you've been to a few times before is always a bit difficult. You know what to expect culturally, financially and logistically – but because you've already hit the main sights on...

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Ikimasho! 2013

2012 was a good year. Firstly, the Mayans proved themselves to be hideous liars and the world didn't end. Second, after a period of cultural and creative stagnation in the UK I decided to bite the...

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Snowflakes & pixels

Like a giant bowl of steamed rice, Japanese snow is fluffy and white and nice to look at. But it also means trudging your way to work through manky Tokyo slush while trying not to fall on your ass....

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Japan: behind the mask

Disease control or beauty enhancement? The ongoing Japanese trend of wearing surgical masks in public. For many people in the West, the sight of Asian folk wearing surgical masks will bring back...

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Sunday, bloody Sunday: Tokyo's Zombie Bar

Partying with zombies in central Tokyo on a Sunday afternoon? Be careful, you might go to hell... On 07 March 321, Constantine 1, Rome's first Christian Emperor, decreed that Sunday should be observed...

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Living in a Japanese Share House

A healthy dose of community spirit – and random strangers stealing your underwear... The ins and outs of living in a Japanese share house. It's 3am and there is a 40-year-old German singing opera in...

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Public shaming: Japan's (not-so) dirty secret

Horrible beyond belief or an honourable extension of the samurai code? Why simply saying “sorry” in Japan doesn't seem to be enough. “Stop this country, I want to get off” read a comment on my...

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Taking a shit in Japan: A Beginner's Guide

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Japan's youth culture isn't a stereotype

It's time to move on. The real fashion in Japan doesn't come from the tired, played-out subcultures but from the kids on the street. Gyarus, Lolitas, Cosplay...yadda yadda yadda. Like a lot of other...

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Unforced Creativity #3

“You have Artline. I am Artline!” How a random encounter with a hyperactive salaryman made me fall in love with Japan all over again. Last Sunday was sunny so I decided to take my sketchbook to...

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Setusbun: my bean-throwing pilgrimage to Sensoji

Evil spirits, a man with a cat on his shoulder and people throwing beans at each other. It can only be Setsubun – Japan's own unique way of saying hello to spring. When I was nine years old I threw a...

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Pleasant Screams: The Queers @ Koenji High, Tokyo

Love him or hate him, Joe Queer is a bit of a legend. He formed The Queers in the year I was born and they are still going strong: playing shitty venues all over the world to a legion of devoted,...

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Japanese Masturbation Manual

So, um, yeah... I guess the title says it all. Just when I thought nothing could top my book about women licking door handles, I stumbled across this little doozy: a manual devoted entirely to the...

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Understanding the Kancho

Could this supposedly harmless schoolyard prank be the breeding ground for Japan's continued sexual suppression and accepted oddities? Kan-CHO!!! It's the one word every teacher of young children in...

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IKIMASHO HAS MOVED!

All content and future posts can now be found at http://ikimasho.net/ Please bookmark this address and use it from now on. I'll not be posting on here any more and from 30 April this address will no...

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